The Island Kitchen

Sri Lankan cuisine’s international stock has been on the rise in recent years. From ‘San Rasa’ restaurant in New York’s Little Sri Lanka district to the spectacularly successful ‘Hoppers’ in London’s Soho, the vibrant flavours of the paradise island are whetting appetites the world over.

But its influence in world taste goes back a lot further. Sri Lanka has been an important stop on the ancient spice trading routes for millennia. This place has long been a big mixing pot of different cultures, attracting traders from China, India, The Middle East and Europe. Marco Polo in the thirteenth-century famously declared it: “The finest island of its size in all the world.”

The more recent colonial presence of the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British, woven together with the island’s own rich mix of indigenous cultures, has created a tapestry of culinary influences and traditions bubbling under the surface. Feeding this is a wealth of climates and fertile terrains perfectly suited to growing a broad range of produce, from cinnamon and cloves to the kinds of vegetables you’d expect to find on a British allotment. Not to mention the tea that this country is famous for.

As major cities around the world strive to become more ‘farm to table’, Sri Lanka is a locavore’s dream: fresh produce, spices, coconut and homegrown rice remain the heart of most dishes. All are usually sourced within a few kilometres or less from any kitchen. It’s true that this may often be for reasons of necessity as much as sustainability, but the result is the same – unbelievably fresh, local food hitting plates everywhere you go here.

Amid all this variety and history, one dish above all in Sri Lankan cuisine has achieved legendary status. ‘Rice & Curry’ is a deceptively simple description that, on one level, is exactly as it sounds: rice served with a mouthwatering curry alongside, be that dhal, fish, chicken, seafood or vegetable. Dig deeper though and you find the phrase can be a gateway to an incredible kaleidoscope of tastes and textures.

For many westerners today, ‘curry’ as a catchall term can be confusing, conjuring a mishmash of images from Indian restaurants and takeaways, to Thai or even Chinese and Japanese cuisine. But while Sri Lanka shares some common traits with its neighbouring India, particularly Kerala to the south, Sri Lankan curry has to be thought of as completely unique. The reason? Coconut oil. Instead of heavier butter or vegetable oils favoured in Indian and Pakistani, curries here are lighter in body thanks to the ubiquitous coconut tree. Almost every part of its nut is used: the sap, milk and the white fruit itself, bringing it closer in taste to some Thai curries. And there is a similar love of chilli here; most Sri Lanka curries are lovely and hot with fresh chilli, but all recipes and measures can – of course – be adjusted to taste.

Not many appreciate such subtle differences because despite Sri Lankan cuisine’s burgeoning acclaim it’s still hard to track down really good recipes outside the country. There is no definitive guide, and there are few great cookbooks, which is odd considering you never seem to be far from an incredible chef here. So to put matters right, I’m meeting one of its best.

Nihal Senanayake is executive chef at Jetwing Lighthouse hotel, which is perched dramatically on the rocks in Galle on Sri Lanka’s sun-soaked southern coast. Like many who choose the kitchen as a career, Nihal learnt his skills early and from his mother.

“My first experiences cooking were with her.” He tells me. “I learnt to make dishes like dhal curry, jackfruit curry, green bean curry – all so simple but so delicious.”

Stints at culinary school and many years in leading kitchens have led to Nihal becoming one the most respected chefs on the island. His modern fusion dishes served in the Jetwing Lighthouse’s hotel restaurant have scooped plenty of awards, but he values traditional Sri Lankan cuisine just as highly. The beauty, he explains, being simplicity: “Our food is not difficult to prepare or create, but the flavours are unique.” He says. “From Galle to Nuwara Eliya, it is all about using the local ingredients found in the area, and the preparation of the spices.”

To demonstrate, Nihal has pulled together a menu of five dishes that anyone could try at home. Each is designed to showcase both the produce and cooking style of a different region and all recipes have been created by a head chef at a different Jetwing hotel property. Each works as standalone meal, served simply with rice, mango chutney and poppadoms, but they can also be cooked together. You could try two or three, or go the whole hog and cook your own classic Sri Lankan Rice & Curry feast.

First things first though. Remember that talk of preparing the spices? Well, now’s the time. Nihal always makes his own curry powder and while it may be tempting to just buy a box of the pre-prepared stuff, if you are after a real, authentic Sri Lankan taste, you need to do the same. The good news is it’s really easy.

Dhal Curry / Tempered Prawns

Serves 4
To begin, let’s start with that absolute cornerstone of Sri Lankan cooking: dhal or dhal curry (also spelt ‘dal’ and ‘daal’ depending on where you are). “We eat this for breakfast, lunch and dinner,” Nihal explains. “This is our real staple dish.” The use of fresh ingredients and coconut milk instead of water makes Sri Lankan dhal different to other dhals in its spice and taste blends. It is the perfect hearty dish in itself, but also an indispensible side as part of a larger meal.

Nihal’s tempered prawns recipe is another classic. Tempered – in this context – means to heat up using spices to create a richly flavoured but dry curry packed with flavour. Getting great raw prawns is everything, so if you don’t happen to have one of the finest fishing ports on your doorstep, seek out good quality, sustainable king prawns from a local fishmonger. All other ingredients for both dishes can be found in any supermarket or, for curry and pandan leaves, Asian food store.

Black Pepper Chicken Curry

Jetwing Yala, Yala

Chicken curry is a stalwart of any restaurant, café or street stall across the island, with nearly as many varieties and recipes as there are vendors. This Sri Lankan chicken curry recipe from Jetwing Yala’s executive chef, Clifford Perera, comes from the heart and the home. He remembers watching his grandmother cooking it over a fire. Don’t be fooled by the ‘black pepper’ title, the spice is present but never potent and, working together with the other ingredients, it creates an outstanding Sri Lankan chicken dish for a Friday night curry.

Green Beans Malluma

Jetwing Ayurveda Pavilions, Negombo

Jetwing’s ayurveda-focused retreat in Negombo is dedicated to wellbeing in mind and body. No surprise then that this superfood vegetarian dish should originate here, courtesy of head chef Rohan Fernando. Simple and quick to cook, it works well as a side or a main and uses nutrient-packed fresh green beans, mixing them with turmeric, garlic and all manner of beneficial, immune-boosting ingredients.

Kiri Dodal

Jetwing Kaduruketha, Wellawaya
What a place to round things off. In an idyllic clearing with mountain views, we’re preparing kiri dodal. Translating as ‘milk pudding’, this delicious rice-based dessert was traditionally made for special occasions and is still given to breast-feeding mothers. Making it for us today is Chandrawathi, who is in charge of the staff kitchen here and regularly gets requests to cook this dessert for guests too. Key is using good, organic rice flour. At Jetwing Kaduruketha hotel it comes fresh from the rice paddies that surround the grounds, but easy enough to find in your local supermarket too.